Xenophon's Basic Training Principles

A friend gave these to me the other day. It was so refreshing to be reminded that these principles are as true today as they were thousands of years ago! Nothing about the horse has changed!

1) Your horse should be your loyal friend, not a slave!

2) Give its training as much attention as if it were your own son.
Make sure that both body and soul of your horse are carefully trained.
It should excel both in it's capacity to perform and its reliability.
Imprinting and influencing its charater should be particularly important to you!
Begin to imprint it whe it is only a few days old to deeply trust you, respect you and obey you.
Make your horse be philanthropic! It should downright love you.

3) Teach it to love work and to voluntarily obey!

4) Be cautious and considerate of its needs!

5) Do everything in your power to understandably communicate with your horse/
It shjould understand your "language"! Rewarding and punishment are the only instruments
needed for its upbringing. But rewarding is absolutely the first priority. Reward every special
performance and every progress in learning - the best way to reward it is to give it a break or
stop work!

6) Don't bore your horse! Vary the work, offer the horse a variety if stimuli. Don't ride it only on the
track, but also train it in the open country, jump it and take it hunting.

7) Work on training your own body and character! Make an effort to obtain a correct seat,
independent of the movement of the horse, which allows you controlled guidance of the horse in
every exercise, tempo and terrian. Your hand should on no account disturb the horse's mouth!
Train yourself to remain calm in all situations and to control your emotions. Leave no space for
fits of rage!

8) Realize that the exercises in high school dressage are not tricks you can teach your horse to do
with the help of unnatural means of coercion. rather, they are a horse's form of impressive self-
expression, shown to other members of its species when it is especially excited.

9) Your horse should experience joy in its work and movements, adn its posture should reveal its
enthusiasm.

10) Don't try to collect and elevate your horse bridling it strongly backwards or using other means
of coercion. Ride decisively forward with lightly applied reins, giving them in at the right
moment.

Don't Be Afraid, Just Braid!

Braiding manes in preparation for a show, clinic or demonstration ride need not be a stressful experience. A little practice and the proper tools are all you need to make braiding easy and enjoyable. Here are a few tips to ensure you will have an end product you can be proud of…without losing your own mane!

1) Make sure your horse’s mane is the correct length and thickness for the type of braid you will be doing. Do NOT wait until the night before the show to pull your horse’s mane! While most horses can be taught to tolerate having their manes pulled, very few enjoy it. Pulling it amid pre-show jitters will not add to his calmness – or yours. You can pull a mane up to two weeks in advance of your event and it will stay the correct length, so prepare the mane early and confidently check that chore off your list. If your horse’s mane is very thick, you might consider pulling just a little each day to avoid making his neck – and your hands – sore.

2) Do NOT wash your horse’s mane with soap or conditioner. Rinse out as much dirt as possible with clean water, but that is all. You don’t want the mane to be squeaky clean…if it is, the braids will fall out fast!

3) Do NOT wait until the day before your event to practice braiding. I know, I know, most people view braiding right up there with a trip to the dentist, but – once you’ve practiced a little – you’ll find it can be easy and even meditative. Your horse will need practice, too. Horses need to learn to stand quietly while being braided - this is not a skill-set they’re born with. Set yourself a reasonable goal of practicing just ½ an hour once or twice a week for a month.

Note: I find it doesn’t work well to have someone hold your horse for you while you braid. If a horse is restless by nature, he will find the person holding him a great diversion…he’ll spend his time trying to engage the ‘holder’ rather than standing quietly. By the same token, it’s best not to give your horse something to eat (such as hay in a hay net) while you’re braiding. Horses don’t stand still while eating. Save his rewards/treats for when you’re finished or he’ll be turning his head to ask for more!


4) Give yourself PLENTY of time to braid! I cannot emphasize this strongly enough. Like a good dressage test, a beautiful braid requires relaxation and concentration. If you’re an accomplished braider, a good braid job can take anywhere from half an hour (for the French braid) to 2 hours (for a lot of button braids or a horse that isn’t being cooperative). If you’re new to braiding (yes, even if you’ve practiced) and experiencing stress at an event, best give yourself even more time than that. Better still, practice doing the whole mane once before a show and time yourself. Then you’ll know exactly how much time you need. The good news is that it will get easier – and faster – with time.


So, you’ve practiced, trained your horse to stand quietly, prepared the mane properly and allowed yourself ample time to braid. You’re ready! Now all you need are the right tools. Tie your horse securely (not too long a rope…he doesn’t need a lot of room to stand quietly), arrange your tools so they are handy and BRAID!

Note of caution: I recommend strongly that you do NOT leave your horse’s mane braided for long…the maximum should be 24 hours. Since the braids are in tight, they have the potential to make the neck - at the worst - sore and – at the least – itchy. Even with a neck cover on, if your horse is uncomfortable, he may try to rub the braids off – enough rubbing and he may succeed in removing some mane!

Removing the Braids

For the easiest braid removal, first wet the mane thoroughly. This allows the braid to fall out after the knot is cut and saves you from tedious unbraiding. Also, your horse will not be left looking like he just got a perm…especially helpful if you’re planning to braid again the next day.



Tools of the Trade

1) Braiding apron – one that ties around your waist or hangs around your neck and has a couple of big pockets. You can buy them anywhere (I found mine at Wild Like Safari!) or can make one from any standard apron pattern. I find the ones that clip on your belt don’t work as well.

2) Small pair of scissors

3) Rug hook (also called a pull-through)

4) Hair clips – have a couple handy, they break easily

5) Mane brush

6) Pulling comb – in case you need to do touch ups

7) Yarn – appropriate to the color of your horse’s mane

8) Seam ripper – for removing the braids

9) Sturdy stool – I like the kind I can store my braiding kit in. The important word here is sturdy. Wobbly or weak is just not safe!

10)A bottle of ‘Quik-Braid’ – honestly, I don’t know how we braided before they invented this stuff!

11) Bucket and a sponge

12) And, if you want to get really fancy, a roll of narrow, white medical tape.

I also like to have:

1) A cheap steak knife. Very useful for making the mane shorter when you don’t want to make it thinner.

2) Hood – sometimes called a ‘sleazy’ or by the brand name ‘Jammies. Very valuable for keeping your braids neat and clean.